Unit 1　Definition, History and China’s Cosmetics Market   001
Chapter 1　Definition and History 001
1.1　Definition 001
1.2　History 002

Chapter 2　China’s Cosmetics Market 007
2.1　Market Overview 007
2.2　Market Competition 009
2.3　Sales Channels 010


Unit 2　Nomenclatures of Cosmetic Ingredients   013
Chapter 3　Brief Guide to the Nomenclature of Inorganic Chemistry 013
3.1　Stoichiometric or Compositional Names 014
3.2　Complexes and Additive Nomenclature 016
3.3　Stereo Descriptors 023
3.4　Summary 024

Chapter 4　Brief Guide to the Nomenclature of Organic Chemistry 027
4.1　Introduction 027
4.2　Substitutive Nomenclature 027
4.3　Creation of Systematic Names 028
4.4　Characteristic Groups—Suffixes and Prefixes 029
4.5　Parent Compounds, Parent Hydrides 030
4.6　Seniority of Parent Compounds 034
4.7　Numbering of Parent Compounds 037
4.8　Functional Class Nomenclature 038
4.9　Specifying Configuration of Stereoisomers 038
4.10　Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) Names 039
4.11　Graphical Representation 039

Chapter 5　A Brief Guide to Polymer Nomenclature 041
5.1　Introduction 041
5.2　Basic Concepts 041
5.3　Source-based Nomenclature 041
5.4　Structure-based Nomenclature 043
5.5　Nomenclature of Inorganic and Inorganic-Organic Polymers 045
5.6　Traditional Names 045
5.7　Graphical Representations 046
5.8　CA Index Names 046

Chapter 6　International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients 048
6.1　What Is INCI? 048
6.2　Why INCI? 048
6.3　INCI Basics 048
6.4　INCI and CAS 050
6.5　INCI Labeling 051
6.6　What INCI Is Not 051
6.7　Applying for an INCI Name 051


Unit 3　Introduction to Common Cosmetic Products   053
Chapter 7　Decorative Cosmetics 053
7.1　Primers 053
7.2　Concealers 054
7.3　Foundation 056
7.4　Rouge, Blush, or Blusher 056
7.5　Bronzer 056
7.6　Highlighter 057
7.7　Eyebrow Pencils, Creams, Waxes, Gels, and Powders 057
7.8　Eyeshadow 057
7.9　Eyeliner 058
7.10　False Eyelashes 058
7.11　Mascara 059
7.12　Lip Products 059
7.13　Face Powder, Setting Powder, or Setting Sprays 059
7.14　Nail Polish 060

Chapter 8　Skincare Cosmetics 062
8.1　Cleansers 062
8.2　Toners 063
8.3　Hyperpigmentation Treatment 064
8.4　Facial Masks 064
8.5　Moisturizers 065
8.6　Barrier Cream 065
8.7　Sunscreens 066

Chapter 9　Hair Care Cosmetics 069
9.1　Shampoos 069
9.2　Hair Conditioners 071
9.3　Hair Sprays 072
9.4　Permanent Waves 072
9.5　Hair Dyes 072
9.6　Bleaching Agents 074
9.7　Hair Waxes 075
9.8　Relaxers 075
9.9　Hair Straightening 075

Chapter 10　Perfumes 078
10.1　History 078
10.2　What Are the Different Types of Perfume? 078
10.3　How Is Perfume Manufactured? 079
10.4　What Are the Ingredients and Chemical Structures of Perfume? 080
10.5　Why Is Perfume Used? 081
10.6　What Are the Adverse Effects of Perfume? 081
10.7　What Is the Difference Between Perfumes Marketed to Males and Females? 082
10.8　What Do the Terms ‘Fragrance-Free’ and ‘Unscented’ Mean? 082


Unit 4　Ingredients in Cosmetics   084
Chapter 11　Oils 084
11.1　Natural Oils 084
11.2　Synthetic and Semi Synthetic Oils 088
11.3　Mineral Oils 094

Chapter 12　Surfactants 097
12.1　Composition and Structure 097
12.2　Classification 097

Chapter 13　Thickeners 105
13.1　Low Molecular Weight Thickeners 105
13.2　Polymeric Thickeners 105

Chapter 14　Ingredients of Moisturizers 110
14.1　Occlusives 110
14.2　Humectants 111

Chapter 15　Colourants 116
15.1　Inorganic Colourants 116
15.2　Organic Colourants 117

Chapter 16　Sunscreen Agents 122
16.1　Organic UV Filters 122
16.2　Inorganic UV Filters 122
16.3　Hybrid UV Filters (Organic/Inorganic Agents) 123
16.4　Botanical Agents 123
16.5　Safety and Health Hazards of Sunscreen Agents 124

Chapter 17　Skin Whitening Agents 127
17.1　Hydroquinone and Its Derivatives 127
17.2　Retinoic Acid or Tretinoin or Vitamin A Acid 128
17.3　Alpha Hydroxy Acid 128
17.4　Ascorbic Acid and Its Derivatives 130
17.5　Retinol and Retinaldehyde 130
17.6　Arbutin and Aloesin 131
17.7　Glabridin 132
17.8　Kojic Acid 133
17.9　Azelaic Acid 133
17.10　Some Lesser Known Extracts or Molecules for Skin Lightening 134

Chapter 18　Anti-aging Agents 138
18.1　Vitamin A, Vitamin E and Coenzyme Q10 138
18.2　Peptides 139

Chapter 19　Preservatives and Antioxidants 152
19.1　Preservatives 152
19.2　Antioxidants 155


Unit 5　Regulations on Cosmetics   159
Chapter 20　Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics in China 159
20.1　Introduction 159
20.2　CSAR and Its Regulatory System 160
20.3　Definition, Scope and Classification of Cosmetics 160
20.4　Management of Cosmetic Ingredients 163
20.5　Technical Requirements about Safety and Efficacy 164

Chapter 21　Legislative Aspects of Cosmetic Safety in the European Union 168
21.1　Introduction 168
21.2　The Requirements of the EU Regulation 168
21.3　REACH and the Classification, Labelling, and Packaging (CLP) Regulations 172
21.4　Specific Restrictions 172

Chapter 22　The United States’ Regulatory Approach to the Safety and Efficacy of Cosmetics 174
22.1　What Kinds of Products Are “Cosmetics” under the Law? 174
22.2　What Does the Law Say about the Safety and Labeling of Cosmetics? 175
22.3　Does FDA Approve Cosmetics Before They Go on the Market? 176
22.4　Who Is Responsible for Substantiating the Safety of Cosmetics? 177
22.5　Can FDA Order the Recall of a Hazardous Cosmetic from the Market? 177
22.6　What Actions Can FDA Take Against Companies or Individuals Who Market Adulterated or Misbranded Cosmetics? 177
22.7　Can FDA Inspect Cosmetics Manufacturers? 178
22.8　Does FDA Test Cosmetics or Recommend Testing Labs? 178
22.9　Do Cosmetics Firms Need to Register with FDA or Get an FDA License to Operate? 178


Unit 6　Formulations, Technologies, Analyses and Packaging of Cosmetics   180
Chapter 23　Formulations, Technologies and Analyses of Cosmetics 180
23.1　Example 1: The Manufacture and Analyses of a Cream Formulation 180
23.2　Example 2: The Manufacture and Analyses of a Suncream Formulated with Thermal Spring Waters from Ourense (NW Spain) and Sargassum muticum Extracts 183
23.3　Example 3: The Manufacture and Analyses of Several Hair Conditioner Products 185
23.4　Example 4: The Manufacture and Analyses of Lipsticks, Lip Balms and Skin Creams Containing Alkenones 188

Chapter 24　Cosmetic Packaging 195
24.1　Description 195
24.2　Purpose of Cosmetic Packaging 195
24.3　Packaging in Multiple Layers 196
24.4　Standards and Regulations 196
24.5　Environmental Aspects 197


Unit 7　Safety Testing, Efficacy and Sensory Evaluation of Cosmetic Products   199
Chapter 25　Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products 199
25.1　Introduction 199
25.2　Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetics Safety Assessments 200
25.3　Genotoxicity Assessment of Cosmetic Products 203
25.4　Skin Sensitization Assessment of Cosmetic Products 204
25.5　Endocrine Properties Assessment of Cosmetic Products 205
25.6　Assessment of Dermal Absorption of Cosmetic Products 206
25.7　Skin and Eye Irritation Assessment of Cosmetic Products 207

Chapter 26　Efficacy of Cosmetics 208
26.1　Evaluation of the Day and Night Creams 208
26.2　Clinical Study of Safety and Skin Efficacy of the Day and Night Creams 209
26.3　Statistical Analysis 211
26.4　Results and Discussion 211

Chapter 27　Sensory Evaluation of Cosmetic Products 214
27.1　Example 1: Sensory Evaluations of Personal-care Products Formulated with Natural Antioxidant Extracts 214
27.2　Example 2: Sensory Evaluation of a Suncream Formulated with Thermal Spring Waters from Ourense (NW Spain) and Sargassum muticum Extracts 218


Unit 8　Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics   222
Chapter 28　Active Ingredients Obtained by Biotechnological Processes 222
28.1　Growth Factors 223
28.2　Enzymes 223
28.3　Stem Cells 225


Appendix Ⅰ: Names and Symbols of Selected Elements   227

Appendix Ⅱ: Multiplicative Prefixes   228

Vocabulary   229