永遠(yuǎn)的查干湖
　　The Eternal Chagan Lake
　　寫在《冰湖騰魚》前邊的話
　　An Introduction to Fishing on the Ice
　　撰文 / 高材林
　　By / Gao Cailin
　　在人類的生活中，其實(shí)我們每一個(gè)人每一天都在尋找，尋找一個(gè)越來越感覺 到能吸引你、能留住你的地方，這個(gè)地方往往是人真實(shí)生活的地方，但又超 越了現(xiàn)實(shí)本身。這里往往是生活本身留住了一些生動(dòng)的東西，或者是山，或 者是水；或者是村落，或者是人家；哪怕僅僅是一座老院落，一座老房子， 一棵老樹，那是一些忍不住讓人去思考的東西，這里才是作為有生命的人去 苦苦尋覓的地方。
　　In human life, each and every one of us is in search of something, looking for a place that increasingly draws us in and keeps us from leaving. It is often a place where people lead real lives, and yet which transcends reality. It is here that life itself retains something vivid, perhaps mountains and waters, villages and people, or even something as simple as an old courtyard, an old house, an old tree. These are the things that make you think, and such are the places that people who are truly alive strive to find.
　　英國著名文化人類學(xué)家查理斯?多爾森（Charles Dorsen）認(rèn)為，社會(huì)不能 不發(fā)展，自然不能不變化，而在所有的發(fā)展與變化中，那些“留住了傳統(tǒng)” 并在進(jìn)程中能使傳統(tǒng)與自然和社會(huì)“很好銜接”的地方就是人類進(jìn)步的典范。 以世界文化學(xué)家的理論和結(jié)論去權(quán)衡，中國吉林省的查干湖冬季漁獵就具有 這樣的性質(zhì)和身份。在這里，它具備了人類所有自然文化與傳統(tǒng)文化很好融 合的條件和能力，它完成了這些實(shí)踐，并很好地保留了傳統(tǒng)留給人類的成果。
　　Charles Dorsen, the renowned British cultural anthropologist, argues that society cannot but develop and nature cannot but change. However, amidst all the developments and changes, those places that “retain traditions” and, in the course of progress, are able to link nature and traditions with society, serve as paradigms of human progress. Gauged by this standard, the winter fishing at Chagan Lake in Jilin Province of China can be seen as such a place. It has all the conditions and abilities for the ideal integration of natural culture and traditional culture, and has well preserved the fruits of human traditions.
　　人類的傳統(tǒng)，是指人類在生存的語言、行為和心理上的一種綜合體現(xiàn)，這種 體現(xiàn)必須是這個(gè)地方具有自己久遠(yuǎn)的歷史、清晰的傳承、活態(tài)的存在和鮮明 的地域特色，查干湖冬捕漁獵就是這樣一個(gè)典型。在這里，這塊土地上的久 遠(yuǎn)歷史都很好地保留在了它的漁獵生活之中，它沒有從歷史和自然中把自己 剝離出去，而是主動(dòng)地靠近自然、保護(hù)自然，讓自己成為自然中的存在，這 在當(dāng)今社會(huì)普遍講發(fā)展而又不知如何遞進(jìn)的進(jìn)程中非常重要，它以自己的實(shí) 踐留住了自然，也留住了自己。與別的地域截然不同的是，查干湖的漁獵留 住了屬于它自己的完整的漁獵傳統(tǒng)。在這里，我們會(huì)清晰地看到久遠(yuǎn)的文化 基因的過渡層次，以人為代表的傳承，在人的血緣關(guān)系和社會(huì)以及職業(yè)關(guān)系上， 都清清楚楚地體現(xiàn)著，甚至，我們可以傾聽到、看得到、觸摸到、感受到這 種文化，也可以與之對話，并參與到傳承的因素中去。我們真真切切地呼吸 到這塊土地上的清新美妙的傳統(tǒng)生存氣息。在這里，近百歲的漁獵文化傳承 者攜著他的諸多 80 歲、70 歲、60 歲、50 歲、40 歲以至更年輕的傳承者， 都留在這塊土地上。這里保留了一種傳統(tǒng)文化的前所未有的完整性和清晰性。 走進(jìn)查干湖，你會(huì)發(fā)覺自己走進(jìn)了優(yōu)秀傳統(tǒng)文化的縝密結(jié)構(gòu)之中，這種結(jié)構(gòu) 是永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)失掉的。
　　Human tradition refers to the comprehensive embodiment of human beings’ language, behavior and psychology for survival. This embodiment requires that a place have a long history of its own, clear inheritance, active existence and distinctive regional characteristics. The winter fishing on Chagan Lake is such an example. Here, the long history of the land is well preserved in its fishing life. It has not torn itself away from history and nature; instead, it has taken the initiative to come close to nature and protect nature, and let itself be an existence in nature, which is all too important in today’s society, where talk of development is everywhere, with little knowledge of how to manage the process. The people of Chagan Lake have preserved the place and surrounding nature by doing what they do. What makes the place utterly different from other regions is that it has preserved its fishing tradition in its entirety. Here, we can clearly see how the cultural DNA has been passed down through the ages and gone through transitions. The heritage is clearly embodied in blood relations as well as social and occupational relations. What is more, we can even hear, see, touch and feel the culture. We can enter a dialogue with it and become part of the legacy. We breathe the refreshing air of a traditional culture that is well and alive. Here, the hundred-year-old preserver of the fishing culture guides and teaches inheritors who are eighty, seventy, sixty, fifty, forty or even younger, while living together with them on this land--a land that has preserved a traditional culture with unprecedented integrity and clarity. Once you enter the world of Chagan Lake, you will find yourself within the finely meshed structure of a splendid traditional culture that will never be lost.
　　衡量所有優(yōu)秀文化的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)只有生活本身。在查干湖，我們可以明確地感受到 它與社會(huì)、與生活、與自然、與文化、與歷史的關(guān)系，特別是它與現(xiàn)實(shí)社會(huì) 的關(guān)系，人們在這里才實(shí)實(shí)在在地感受到查干湖漁獵生活已與今天的社會(huì)生 活多么的不可分割，那已形成了一種生活鏈，它是活著的傳統(tǒng)，它是活態(tài)的 文化基地，它是現(xiàn)實(shí)人們所需要的一種生動(dòng)的生存方式。同時(shí)，人們又清楚 地感受到，這里具有屬于自己的鮮明的地域特色，這是使它一躍而成為人類 文化遺產(chǎn)的重要條件和身份。在生活中，其實(shí)任何一塊土地、一個(gè)地域，都 有自己的鮮明特色，但是在認(rèn)同這個(gè)特色、保護(hù)這個(gè)特色、挖掘這個(gè)特色、 傳承這個(gè)特色上，別的地方很難超越這里。
　　The standard for measuring all good cultures is life itself. At Chagan Lake, we can clearly feel its relationships with society, life, nature, culture and history, especially its relationship with the real world. Here, one truly feels that the Chagan Lake fishing life is inseparable from life in today's society, with which it has formed a chain of life. It is a living tradition; it is a living cultural base; it is a vivid way of life that people need. At the same time, one will also clearly feel that it has distinct regional characteristics of its own. They constitute the critical conditions and identity which have made the place a cultural heritage site of China. In fact, any piece of land, any region, has its own distinct characteristics. However, in terms of identifying with these characteristics, protecting them, exploring them and passing them down, no place has done better than Chagan Lake.
　　一個(gè)地方，它的真實(shí)能力不在于如何昭示、宣傳，它應(yīng)該做的恰恰是如何去 認(rèn)識(shí)它自己。一個(gè)不能很好認(rèn)識(shí)自己的地域，就沒有未來，很真實(shí)地認(rèn)識(shí)自己、 思考自己，才能完善自己，才能根據(jù)自己的本土存在去認(rèn)真地審視自己與人 類的自然、歷史與文化的關(guān)系，也才能找到自己。查干湖最大的成功是很好 地找到了自己，也就找到了他人。它立足于本土，也才找到了世界，進(jìn)入到 人類文化的層次。
　　A place’s true value lies not in how it displays or promotes itself, but in how well it knows itself. No place that fails to understand itself has any future. Only by truly understanding itself and reflecting on itself can it improve itself, and, based on its existence on the land, further to examine itself in relation to nature, history and cultures, ultimately discovering its true self. Chagan Nur's greatest success lies in having found itself, which has allowed it to find others. Only by remaining rooted in its own land has it found the world, and become a shared human cultural heritage.
　　查干湖漁獵文化的所有存在，完完全全地得益于留住了自然的原始背景優(yōu)勢， 并在保護(hù)這個(gè)重要自然基因的進(jìn)程中，一刻也未停止地保住更加重要的生存 傳統(tǒng)，那就是作為三大人文要素的語言、行為和心理。這種保持和生存，使 得查干湖得天獨(dú)厚地占據(jù)了人類社會(huì)向文明發(fā)展過渡的前沿高度，它沒有讓 自己離開人類社會(huì)發(fā)展的文明前沿，因此它具備了沖向人類文化頂點(diǎn)高度的 能力和品質(zhì)。
　　The Chagan Lake fishing culture owes its existence entirely to having retained its natural environment, through the process of which the people tirelessly preserved the traditions linked to their survival, namely the three major cultural elements: language, behavior and psychology. This has allowed the culture of Chagan Lake to remain at the forefront of human society's development towards civilization, endowing it with the ability to reach the height of human culture.
　　若干年以來，人類社會(huì)處于匆忙的轉(zhuǎn)換期與轉(zhuǎn)型期，歐洲的工業(yè)革命發(fā)展到 工業(yè)文明的今天，恰恰與中國的工業(yè)化、城鎮(zhèn)化異曲同工。在中國社會(huì)與人 類文化發(fā)展的全球化背景之中，人們在苦苦地尋找失落的曾經(jīng)創(chuàng)造過人類思 想與文化輝煌的遺產(chǎn)，可是，都不知不覺地被發(fā)展的理念輕易地忽視掉了。 查干湖的存在，一下子突顯出它的珍貴和重要了，很少有例子在當(dāng)今可以說 明傳統(tǒng)在一個(gè)地域和一個(gè)民族中的價(jià)值意義，查干湖恰恰以自己的真實(shí)、樸 實(shí)、生動(dòng)的身份和完整的傳統(tǒng)文化結(jié)構(gòu)向人類做出自己的答案，這里才是人 類理想的去處，是人類千百年來苦苦尋覓又接續(xù)要去構(gòu)建的地方，它的存在， 是全人類的一個(gè)奇跡。
　　For many years now, human society has been in a fast-paced period of transition and transformation. The progression from the industrial revolution to an industrialized civilization in Europe is mirrored by China's industrialization and urbanization. Against the cultural background of globalization and the social and human development in China, people are struggling to find what has been lost, the legacy that once created glorious human thoughts and cultures, which, nevertheless, has been unwittingly overlooked and replaced by newly-discovered ideas. Chagan Lake's existence highlights how precious and significant this legacy is. Today, no other place better exemplifies the importance of tradition to a region and a people than Chagan Lake, and it has done so with an identity that is authentic, down-to- earth and vivid and a traditional cultural structure that remains intact. It is the ideal place to be for humans, one that we have sought long and hard for and will continue to build. Its existence is a miracle for all mankind.
　　如今，全球都在變暖。人類渴望到達(dá)一個(gè)美妙的冰雪世界，冰雪鑄就的庭院 樓閣，處處雪樹冰花，仿佛這些只能在安徒生童話和普希金聽外婆講的傳說 中才有。其實(shí)，查干湖就是這樣的一個(gè)地方。在這里有白雪鋪就的原野，有 冰湖凝成的晶瑩的冰原，那些五彩繽紛的冰與雪的文化都是它自己的內(nèi)涵。 在這里，美麗夢幻的冰雪不再是一個(gè)單純的背景和空間，它有自己的述說， 那一串一串的故事、傳說以及傳說和故事中的人物，許許多多的冰雪記憶， 都可以活生生地與你對話，這里在親切地拉著你的手，讓你能夠融進(jìn)故事和 傳說。夢幻其實(shí)已是生活本身。冰雪佳境，晶瑩剔透，冰走馬輪，霜結(jié)人臉， 魚騰冰湖，漢唐飛天，蒼狼踏冰，人畜與共，一處完整的自然與社會(huì)完美融合， 被人類很好保留和發(fā)展出來的生命生存佳境，奉獻(xiàn)給了人類文化遺產(chǎn)寶庫。 查干湖，其實(shí)是自己保住了自己，自己留住了自己。
　　Today, the world is getting warmer. Humans long for a wonderful world of ice and snow, where courtyards and pavilions made of ice and snow are everywhere, surrounded by snow trees and ice flowers. It might seem that all these can only exist in Andersen’s fairy tales and the legends that Pushkin's grandmother told him. In fact, Chagan Lake is just such a place. Here, there are snow-covered wilderness and ice sheets formed by crystalline ice lakes, which are given meaning by the colorful culture of ice and snow. Here, the dreamlike ice-scape is no longer a simple background and space. It has its own narratives. The string of stories, legends, and characters in the legends and stories, and all those memories hidden in the ice and snow, talk to you as if they are alive. This place holds your hand cordially so that you can immerse yourself in the stories and legends. In fact, here life itself is a dream. This wonderful land of ice and snow, of crystalline clearness, of horse- drawn wagons on ice, of frost-covered faces, of fish leaping out of the lake, of the Han and Tang flying Apsaras, of wolves crossing the ice, of men and beasts living side by side — all this shows a perfectly preserved harmony between nature and humans, contributing to the treasure trove of human cultural heritage. In so doing, Chagan Lake has preserved itself, all by itself.
　　高材林 2016 年 10 月
　　Gao Cailin October 2016